The only park to complete the Mighty Five was Zion, but
before that we wanted to explore the North Rim of the Grand Canyon http://www.go-arizona.com/Timp-Point-Scenic-Drive/
.
We had visited the South Rim of the Grand Canyon in October
2012 where we hiked down to the Colorado River camped there for 2 nights. This
time we wanted to give the North Rim a shot. On Monday, 15th June we got on the
Road towards the North Rim. On the highway, before the junction to Zion, we saw
a sign for German Bakery. We nearly passed it, but turned around to enjoy a typical
German breakfast and got fresh Rye Bread. After getting supplies in Kanab and
checking with the Kaibab National Forest office (in order to get a map to find
the camping spot just right off the North Rim – Timp point – we had been
recommended) we drove to the Grand Canyon. On the way there we got into a
thunderstorm with hale, and we already thought, that the bad weather had us
back…. Even though it was forecasted to get really hot this week.
The North Rim side of the Grand Canyon National Park is much
greener (or at least as we remember) with huge pine and aspen forests around.
Arriving at the rim it was already hot, but before exploring the rim we wanted
to find out about the backpack permit needed to make an overnight hike down to
the bottom of the Canyon. Our plan was to hike down there in 1 day, sleep 1
night at Panthoms Ranch/ Bright Angel Campground and hike up the next day. At
the Backcountry office we found out, that the weather forecast was going to be
over 105C/40C in the Canyon, and we had to come back in the morning to see if
there is availability. The route from the North side is also nearly double the
distance (14miles 1 way instead of 8 miles on the South Rim) as you have to
hike through Bright Angel Canyon before arriving at the main Canyon, with the
Colorado River. From the North side you can see much better the different side
Canyons that belong to the whole Grand Canyon. So we decided to skip the plan
to hike down the canyon and went for an easy walk along the edge of the Rim and
had a look to the Gran Canyon Lodge. As the campground of the North Rim was
booked out until October (reservation only!!) we headed to the remote camping
spot at Timp Point. After an hour scenic drive through the forest on a dirt
road, which was well maintained (again we were astonished by so much green at
the Grand Canyon) we arrived at the Timp Point. http://www.go-arizona.com/Timp-Point-Scenic-Drive/.
There are about 5 camping spots just right off the rim, one was already
occupied, but we found a nice one overlooking a side canyon. There was plenty
of fire wood (for free) so we had a relaxing evening enjoying the views and the
fire.
On Tuesday, 16th June we went for a hike along
the rim in the National forest to the next view point. There we met a National
Forest Lady, doing a survey about the services of the National Forest. We had
an interesting conversation with her and she explained us the difference in
National Park/ National Forest and BLM Land, and other things like why in the
parks they do prescribe fires etc. After getting back to the camper we had a
nice afternoon enjoying cheese cake & ice cream, hmmm. In the evening we
went to a viewpoint to see the sunset and had another nice evening on the
campfire with good steaks.
Impressions from Grand Canyon North Rim:
On Wednesday, 17th June we got up early to drive
to Zion National Park http://www.nps.gov/zion/index.htm
early enough to maybe get a spot at the campground in the Park. It went well
until we hit the park entrance. Lining up to get in the park and we needed a
special permit to get with our camper through the tunnel on the east entrance.
Cost us another 15 USD, and we were surprised how full the park was. Cars back
to back, waiting line at the tunnel and it was getting hot… first day we would
hit 100F/ 38C. Before taking the large tunnel and go into the valley we did the
Canyon overlook hike, which we had done 7 years ago once we first visited the
park. It’s a short walk –in the sun - to
overlook the valley/ canyon. Afterwards we got into the canyon. The drive through
the tunnel was not a mayor deal. Just driving a bit more in the center. As they
stopped traffic anyway, regardless if you had a higher camper then 11” … no big
deal… just another way for the National Park to make money….Down in the valley
we were lucky to get a spot at the visitor center parking (the said go to town
and take the shuttle)… We took the shuttle to the very end of the valley (Temple
of Sinawava) to do the famous Narrow hike. This is a hike where you walk the
first mile along the river on a paved walkway, than you enter into the river
and walk the river. This was crazy -
there were thousands of tourists doing the same thing and we thought after a
while they will disappear… no way…. After another 1.5 miles in the water we
gave up… still lots of people on the way… this was such a contrast to the
canyon we hiked a week ago at Little Wild Horse.
The campgrounds were full so we were ready to find a
dispersed camping spot. This means essentially that we have enough water… Our
campground at milepost 24, just along the river where we had camped before (by
recommendation of the Park ranger 7 years ago) was supposed to be closed, so
they told us at the visitor center. We found on our favorite webpage
freecampsites.net another spot in town, but kind of non official… we drove by
there but did not want to sleep in between garbage cans…. So we found another
Spot on BLM land off road about 5 miles from the entrance. The road was pretty
much washed out, very steep and difficult. There were already a few campers out
there but we found a spot just after the mandatory 0.5mile from the main
street, just before a huge climb into the mountains. We parked there and had
dinner watching other people on the same mission, struggling with the next
grade uphill… So we felt lucky for the spot we found.
On Thursday, 18th June we got up early…. Especially
Steffi was nervous to get a spot at the campground. So we got up like at 6.30
am and by 7.30 we hit the road and got a campground before 8am. This was crazy…
we had not seen something similar before. It was strange that all of the sudden
in the valley by the campground it was cold and windy. We thought another
thunderstorm… but no… apparently in the valley bottom there is wind blowing
after sunset and then in the morning until the sun hits the valley. We prepared
a nice breakfast and went with the shuttle bus to our next hike Angels Landing.
This is a famous Rock overlooking the valley. We still were lucky as we had
shade about half of the time on our hike up (apr. 1500f/ 500m) in 2 miles /
3km, it was a steep summit with lots of switchbacks, but mainly on concrete
path, only the last half mile (750m) was climbing on rocks secured by chains.
It was certainly one of the most beautiful hikes we had done in the last 3
month and we would recommend it to anybody (without fear of height). The view
on top was breathtaking.
We got back to the campground and spent the afternoon (after
some more cheese cake with ice cream) on the river enjoying a bit of a cold
breeze. In the evening we made another fire to use up our remaining fire wood.
We were almost ready to call it the day when a van drove by and ask for
directions for another campground. It happens to be a young couple, Sophie from
Denmark and Jost from Germany and after a little talk we invited them to stay
on our spot (which was huge… like 500m2). We had some drinks together and then
went to bed; thinking about this would be our last day in a National Park for a
long time.
Impressions from Zion National Park:
On Friday, 19th June, we were not sure if we stay
or drive to Las Vegas and relax a couple of days. At 7am there were already
people around asking for the campground….. Crazy… so at 7.05h our campground
got reserved by a guy from WY so no time to make a decision…. Off we went to
Las Vegas.
The closer we got to Las Vegas the warmer it was…. Robert
liked this a lot…. No longer freezing wet…. Once we arrived in Las Vegas 110F/
43C…. We got groceries and went to our campground hiding from the sun… This was
the first time we could not sit outside because of the hot weather, before it
was always because of the rain. We spent the afternoon organizing our Trip to
Europe/ VA/ MTY and hoped it would get cold during the night…. Nothing like
this happened. On Saturday, 20th June we felt the first time what it
meant that a camper has its temperature limitation…. The freezer was not
freezing any longer and the refrigerator was just a bit colder than room
temperature (with AC about 30C/ without 43C), At least at night the AC did a
good job so we could sleep well.
In the afternoon we went for a nice dinner at a Thai
Restaurant we recalled from our last visit in 2007 and had a nice evening
watching people on the Strip. There was some kind of festival next to the Luxor
and thousands of young people were going there. They were dressed very lightly;
especially the Lady’s which was interesting to watchJ.
On June 21st we went to a lake close to the hover dam were
we wanted to go swimming and to cool off, well that was the plan but it was
still 110F and the water was muddy which was not very nice so after an hour we
decided to drive back after I had some issues getting out off the mud. Thanks
to 4WD it wasn’t a problem. The rest of the day we just relaxed.
On Monday June 22nd it was time for us to get a haircut
so we could go back to civilization for a while. We also shopped around for a
guard grill and a winch for our truck.
On Tuesday June 23rd we started to clean the
camper and to pack for our trip to Europe which meant some rearranging in and
outside the camper. In the heat that was quite a challenge and we had to take
several breaks in between.
June 24th. This is our last day in Vegas so it
was time to finish our preparations and put the Rig into storage for the next 2
month. Steffi is going now to Mexico for 5 days and Robert to Virginia. We will
meet next Monday in Detroit and fly together to Germany to visit friends and
family. We will return on August 12th, get our new guard grill /
winch installed before traveling south.
Impressions from the road and Las Vegas:
